There are places that feel like a book, containing many stories yet untold. Some capture the history and trials of Saigon, while others reflect the modern spirit of this ever evolving city. The Cafe Apartment in Ho Chi Minh city is an example. This one timeworn yet iconic building tucked along Nguyen Hue Walking Street stands quietly amid the city’s glittering skyline, its balconies brimming with hanging plants, cafe signs, and the hum of creativity.
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The Cafe Apartment at a Glance: History and Design
A Building's Story: History of the Cafe Apartment
Before it became one of Saigon’s most photographed landmarks, The Cafe Apartment had an entirely different life.
The story of this unique structure begins in 1960. Commissioned by the French and situated on the grand Charner Boulevard (now Nguyen Hue Walking Street), the nine-story complex was originally intended as a high-status residence for senior French officers. Its concrete corridors once echoed with the sounds of typewriters and family dinners, not espresso machines and music playlists. For a time, it was the most imposing building on the entire avenue.
After 1975, the building was repurposed to house shipyard workers, reflecting the shifting socio-political landscape of the era. By the early 2000s, the building had fallen into neglect, mirroring the rapid urban development that surrounded it.
The structure was divided into three sections:
- The grandest units, often exceeding 100m2 and featuring the coveted views over Nguyen Hue Street, were designated for high-ranking officers and Ba Son shipyard workers.
- Smaller flats housed lower-ranking officials.
- The most telling sign of the building’s original purpose were the tiny units, some reportedly as small as 9m2, tucked away inside. These were the living quarters for the service staff (drivers, cleaners, and valets) who needed to be located right alongside their employers for immediate duty.
For decades it stood quietly, its paint peeling and balconies slowly weathering in the tropical heat. It wasn’t until around 2015, amid a wave of Saigon’s urban revitalization, that artists and young entrepreneurs began moving in. They rented old apartments, transformed them into small boutiques, tea rooms, and cafés; each one adding a new layer to the building’s evolving identity that gives the building its legendary status.
The transformation of The Cafe Apartment reflects the resilience and ingenuity of Ho Chi Minh City’s culture. It is the city’s way of saying that it can thrive against all odds.
The Iconic Facade
Long before you step inside, the Cafe Apartment makes its presence known. Standing as a unique cultural landmark and a mesmerizing visual spectacle in the heart of Ho Chi Minh City, this apartment block is a vertical mosaic of urban life. Taking a moment to admire its exterior, maybe taking some “I was here” photo is an essential first step to make your experience here whole.
The building offers two distinct visual experiences. By day, it’s a fascinating, aged apartment block. Even amidst downtown with the blistering pace of development and modern buildings springing up everywhere, this apartment building still maintains its unique, nostalgic look.
And by night, it transforms into a dazzling spectacle. Each individual café and boutique illuminates its own small square of the facade with a riot of colorful lighting. An eclectic mix of neon strips, LEDs, delicate fairy lights, traditional lanterns, and naked light bulbs creates a vibrant, glowing patchwork against the dark sky.
This external view effectively serves as a living menu, allowing you to survey the different businesses from afar. You can make a mental note of the names and styles that look most appealing before you even head inside, which is a helpful strategy for navigating the potentially disorienting interior.
Pro Tip: For the absolute best photos and to fully appreciate the building’s scale and charm, make your way to the middle of the Nguyen Hue walking street. This vantage point provides an unobstructed and perfectly framed view of the entire building’s facade.
A Floor-to-floor Guide of The Cafe Apartment
Navigating the Ground Floor: The Entrance and Practical Details
The ground level of the Cafe Apartment serves as the gateway to discovery, but it’s an experience defined by a fascinating contrast. Understanding the layout here is the key to beginning your vertical adventure.
The entire ground floor is occupied by Fahasa, one of Vietnam’s most renowned bookstore chains. If you’re looking for a book, map, or magazine to accompany your journey, it’s well worth taking some time to browse the shelves here before you ascend.
The entrance to the Cafe Apartment proper is located to the left of the bookstore as you face the building from Nguyen Hue Walking Street. Prepare yourself for a hidden portal; it is a diminutive entrance, covered in a web of electrical cables and plastered with at least a dozen signs for the various cafes and boutiques housed above, a clear signal of the creative energy packed into the floors that follow.
Essential Parking Information: For those arriving by vehicle, please note the following critical details to ensure a smooth visit:
- The small parking area located just inside the entrance is reserved exclusively for residents and is not available for visitors.
- Public parking is conveniently available at the adjacent Lucky Plaza and the specified cost for motorbikes is 15,000 VND.
The First Floor: Adventure Begins
As you walk up the first staircase, you’ll be greeted by a risque mural on the wall, setting the mood. The first floor is almost entirely taken up by the Phan Nhu Thao Beauty Salon, which offers services like hair washes, waxing, and treatments for eyelashes and eyebrows. While you might not be stopping for a treatment, this floor is your best opportunity to observe the original building materials. Take a moment to admire the vintage tiles, glass panes, and ceiling details, these are beautiful remnants of a disappearing Saigon.
Krystalini Hidden Cocktail Bar: Embark on a Speakeasy Mission
Opening hours: 4 PM-12 AM
Concealed behind an everyday facade is the Krystalini Cocktail Bar, a speakeasy with an entrance that feels like a riddle. To find Krystalini, you need to follow a very specific, counter-intuitive path. Here is your mission:
- Take the staircase to the 2nd floor (don’t worry you’re reading right) and turn right.
- Head to the end of the corridor.
- Take the rear staircase back down to the 1st floor.
- You will reach a revolving bookcase: this is the entrance.
- Ring the bell and wait to be let in.
Push the bookcase, ring the bell, and get ready to leave the city behind. Your reward awaits.
- Vibe: A dimly lit, speakeasy-style cocktail bar that feels a world away from the busy street outside.
- Seating: The space features a range of comfortable, upholstered, rose-red couches and classic bar stools.
- Drinks: The menu includes a well-crafted list of both classic and signature cocktails to suit any taste.
Insider Tip: You may be asked for a reservation, but first-time visitors are usually forgiven for arriving without one.
The Second Floor: Scent, Flavor, and Creative Encounters
The second floor of the Cafe Apartment is where the senses awaken. As you ascend from the dimly lit first staircase, the air shifts: lighter, more aromatic, carrying traces of brewed coffee and perfume. This level marks the building’s transition from everyday commerce to artistic expression, blending local craftsmanship with modern lifestyle.
When you reach the landing, you’ll find two diverging paths. Turn right, and the scent of something delicate and new will greet you. Turn left, and the soft hum of conversation from a sunlit café will draw you in.
Turn Right: Discover NOTE – The Scent Lab
Opening hours: 8:30 AM-9 PM
Turning right from the stairs, you’ll immediately notice the minimalist sign of NOTE – The Scent Lab, one of the building’s newest and most refined additions. This Vietnamese perfumery brings a contemporary aesthetic to the Cafe Apartment, each fragrance is inspired by emotion, memory, or place.
NOTE’s collection ranges from signature perfumes to scented oils, candles, and diffusers, all crafted with care in Vietnam. NOTE – The Scent Lab has quickly become a favorite among both locals and travelers seeking meaningful souvenirs, offering visitors a tangible way to bring Vietnam home, one scent at a time. The minimalist interior, warm lighting, and inviting fragrance trail make it a peaceful pause from the building’s busy stairways.
For tourists, NOTE’s store on the second floor is particularly convenient:
- It’s downtown, within walking distance from all major attractions.
- It’s easy to access for a last-day visit before heading to the airport.
- It’s ideal for personalized gifts, allowing you to bring home a story in scent.
Learn more about NOTE – The Scent Lab destination: A must-visit destination in Ho Chi Minh City
Turn Left: GOM x Nicotin Café and NOTE’s Perfume Workshop
Opening hours:
GOM x Nicotin Café: 8 AM-10 PM
NOTE – The Scent Lab perfume workshop: 10 AM-6 PM
If you turn left instead, a different experience awaits. Down the open hallway is GOM Saigon x Nicotine Café, a well-loved Saigon spot known for its ceramic decor and open layout. In this open and spacious café space, NOTE offers perfume-making workshops, where fragrance becomes a form of storytelling.
Here, travelers, expats, and locals come together to create their own perfume with step-by-step guidance. The workshop invites you to explore accords, blend notes, and craft your scent – often inspired by your favorite Vietnam memory.
Join perfume workshop here.
It’s a surprisingly reflective experience, between cups of coffee and the scent of sen, citrus or sandalwood,… people find themselves distilling moments into fragrance: the aromatic spice of Ben Thanh Market, the luminous, marine air of Da Nang beach, to the open green field along Ha Giang Loop, or the calm early morning in Hanoi’s West Lake.
Each participant leaves with a bottle that captures their own memory of Vietnam. Whether you’re traveling solo or in a group, the perfume workshop offers a rare way to connect scent with culture and take home something truly personal. Like a fragrant diary of your journey, the perfume workshop is one of the most unique cultural encounters in the entire building.
Discover ways to spend your last meaningful day in Vietnam: A Unique Vietnam Experience: Crafting Your Own Signature Scent on the Last Day of Your Trip
A Refreshing Pause: Poke Saigon
Opening hours: 10 AM-9 PM
Back near the stairwell, beside NOTE – The Scent Lab store, is Poke Saigon, a bright, cheerful spot offering fresh Hawaiian-inspired bowls: colorful layers of salmon, rice, avocado, and mango.
It’s the perfect stop for a healthy break before you continue your vertical exploration. Grab a seat by the window and enjoy a panoramic view of Nguyen Hue Walking Street below. The contrast between the cool poke and the warm Saigon light feels emblematic of the building itself: old structure, modern taste.
Insider tip: If you’re visiting on a hot day, the second floor is a perfect mid-way recharge point.
- Start with a quick lunch at Poke Saigon.
- Then drop by NOTE – The Scent Lab to explore their fragrances or join a perfume workshop.
- Finally, take a moment to sit near the window after the perfume workshop and enjoy a cup of Vietnamese coffee, where you can look out over the bustling street and watch this city moving from above.
The Fourth Floor: Creativity, Culture, and Quiet Corners
As you make your way up to the fourth floor, the sounds of the cafés below begin to fade, replaced by the hum of quiet conversations and soft background music. This level feels like a creative sanctuary; a place where fashion, art, and introspection meet. If the lower floors of the Cafe Apartment represent discovery and energy, the fourth floor embodies expression and calm.
The E.Y.E Saigon
Opening hours: 10 AM-10 PM
Your first stop is The E.Y.E Saigon, a minimalist lifestyle shop known for its well-made tote bags, clothing, and accessories. The name stands for “Express Yourself Everyday” – a fitting motto for the creative souls who frequent this space.
The tote bags are particularly popular among travelers and locals alike, featuring clean lines, quality fabrics, and understated design. Each piece feels timeless yet distinctly Saigon, the kind of souvenir you’ll actually use back home.
Insider tip: They occasionally release limited-edition collaborations with local artists, so it’s worth checking back on repeat visits.
closete. – The Curated Thrift Closet
Opening hours: 1 PM-9 PM
A few doors down, closete. invites you into a carefully curated secondhand boutique that feels more like a friend’s walk-in closet than a thrift store. Everything is handpicked, from vintage denim and linen shirts to minimalist dresses and statement accessories.
It’s one of the few places in Saigon where “thrift” feels elevated rather than chaotic. The layout is clean, the pieces are steamed and neatly arranged, and the playlist gives off effortless cool.
Why visit: closete. represents a new wave of sustainable fashion culture in Vietnam, stylish, conscious, and refreshingly real.
Paddy Noddy: A Vinyl Listening Bar
Opening hours: Thursday to Sunday | 6PM-midnight
If you follow the sound of faint crackling vinyl and jazz melodies, you’ll find Paddy Noddy, a tucked-away listening bar that has become a favorite among audiophiles and creatives.
Step inside, and the world outside disappears. The dim light, wood-paneled interior, and vintage record players create a nostalgic yet contemporary space where you can enjoy curated playlists with a drink in hand.
Vibe check: Think of it as Saigon’s own answer to Tokyo’s kissaten, intimate, moody, and deeply personal.
21Grams Vegetarian Eatery
Opening hours: 10 AM-10 PM
Next door, 21Grams offers a quiet retreat for vegetarians or anyone seeking a wholesome meal. The name comes from the poetic notion that the human soul weighs 21 grams; a fitting metaphor for a restaurant that feeds both body and spirit.
Their dishes are vibrant yet light: colorful rice bowls, tofu salads, and herbal teas. With soothing music and natural lighting, it’s one of those spaces that makes you forget you’re inside a 60-year-old apartment building.
Try this: The lemongrass tofu and iced chrysanthemum tea. Simple, fragrant, and quintessentially Vietnamese.
Chocovine: Where Chocolate Meets Coffee
Opening hours: 10 AM-10 PM
For dessert lovers, Chocovine is a must-stop. The café’s name hints at its concept, a pairing of artisan chocolate and coffee. Step inside and you’ll be greeted by the rich aroma of cocoa, with displays of chocolate bars made in-house.
Their signature drink, a velvety hot chocolate infused with Vietnamese cacao, captures both comfort and indulgence. Sit by the window and watch life unfold on Nguyen Hue street below, it’s pure slow-travel bliss.
%Arabica
Opening hours: 7 AM-10 PM
Rounding off the floor is %Arabica, the world-renowned coffee brand from Kyoto that needs little introduction. With its sleek white interior and minimalist aesthetic, it offers a striking contrast to the surrounding indie vibe of the Café Apartment.
The espresso here is sharp and clean, made with signature precision. Though slightly pricier, it’s worth visiting for the vibe and high quality coffee.
Insider tip: Early mornings are best if you want to enjoy your latte without the crowd.
The Fifth Floor: A Pause Above the City
By the time you reach the fifth floor, the air feels noticeably calmer. The chatter from the cafés below has softened into a low hum, replaced by the steady rhythm of ceiling fans and the faint aroma of coffee drifting through open doors. This floor feels like the pause between stories: a place to rest, refresh, and reset before you continue exploring the apartment.
The corridor here is bright, dotted with leafy plants and simple wooden signs. It’s home to a few of the building’s most beloved spots, where travelers often linger longer than planned.
Saigon FAST Nails & Head Spa
Opening hours: 9 AM-9 PM
Your first stop is Saigon FAST Nails & Head Spa, a hidden gem for those craving a quick but satisfying self-care break. The name might sound speedy, but the service here is anything but rushed.
Inside, the space is airy and relaxing, with pastel walls, clean design, and the gentle scent of essential oils. From express manicures to head spa treatments, the staff focuses on precision and calm, a welcome contrast to the buzz of Nguyen Hue Street below.
Traveler tip: Appointments aren’t always necessary, but it’s best to visit before noon to avoid the afternoon rush. The head spa treatment is particularly popular with locals who swear by its stress-relieving magic.
Saigon Ơi Café – The Beating Heart of the Apartment
Opening hours: 7 AM-10 PM
A few steps deeper into the building, the hallway shifts: a canopy of hanging trees softens the edges of the old apartment, their cool green casting dappled light against weathered walls. It’s an unexpected prelude to what comes next.
At the end of the corridor waits Saigon Ơi Café, one of the Cafe Apartment’s true icons. Inside, sunlight pours through French windows, soft music hums low, and conversations drift between travelers, locals, and artists. The walls, adorned with art prints and Polaroids, hold that unmistakable Saigon charm, nostalgic, yet alive with quiet motion.
Order a coconut coffee or passion fruit soda, then settle near the balcony. The view opens directly onto Nguyen Hue Walking Street below, a moving tapestry of people, lights, and energy. Whether you’re watching the city wake up in the morning or glow at sunset, this spot captures the poetic heart of Saigon.
Insider tip: It’s best to come in mid-morning, when sunlight spills across the tiled floors, perfect for a quiet photo or two. Or drop by on a rainy day, when the mist lingers and the smell of rain drifts in through the window. Bring a book or your journal. It’s that kind of café.
The Sixth Floor: Where Stories and Styles Meet
Climbing to the sixth floor feels like entering another world. The stairway turns narrower, the walls hum softly with the echoes of footsteps below, and then, suddenly, the space opens into a quiet corner of curated calm. Here, fashion meets nostalgia, and coffee mingles with creativity.
It’s a floor where Saigon’s layered identity truly comes alive: youthful yet timeless, modern yet touched with the patina of memory.
The Letter Coffee & Clothing
Opening hours: 9 AM-10:30 PM
If the Cafe Apartment were a book, The Letter would be one of its most tender chapters.
Part café, part boutique, The Letter is instantly recognizable by its pastel-hued doors and warm, vintage charm. Step inside, and you’re greeted by retro furniture, soft yellow lighting, and a carefully curated mix of clothing, art, and scent. Every corner seems designed for slow afternoons and thoughtful pauses.
The Letter’s coffee menu is simple but beautifully made, from rich cà phê sữa đá to floral lattes served in ceramic cups. As you sip, your eyes might wander to the racks of linen dresses, handmade accessories, or the dried flowers decorating the shelves.
It’s easy to see why this spot is beloved by locals and travelers alike. The Letter isn’t just a place to drink coffee; it’s a space to feel Saigon: nostalgic, creative, effortlessly graceful.
Don’t miss: Their signature coconut coffee, best enjoyed near the window where the afternoon light hits the wall just right for photos.
Madam Quyên Food & Coffee
Opening hours: 9 AM-9 PM (open until 10PM on Friday)
Located in the Floor 5 and Floor 6 of the apartment, Madam Quyen Food & Coffee brings the comforting essence of Vietnamese home cooking into the heart of the Cafe Apartment.
The space feels like stepping into a modern Saigon dining room: elegant, a little old-fashioned, yet full of warmth. Wooden tables, vintage mirrors, and ceramic bowls add to the charm, while the aroma of simmering broth fills the air.
The menu focuses on traditional Vietnamese dishes with a refined touch, think bún thịt nướng, gỏi cuốn, and refreshing drinks made from local ingredients. It’s the perfect lunch stop before you head to the rooftop or explore the last corners of the building.
Traveler tip: Try their bún chả Hà Nội or a cool peach tea. It’s a wonderful spot to unwind if you want a taste of home-cooked comfort in the middle of the city’s creative chaos.
The Seventh Floor: Tea, Taste, and Timeless Charm
By the time you reach the seventh floor, the air feels lighter, maybe it’s the height, or maybe it’s the quiet rhythm of the building as it slows toward the rooftop. Here, the city below becomes a soft hum, and Saigon’s creative spirit takes a more delicate, almost poetic form.
The seventh floor is best known for its cozy balance between culinary comfort and aesthetic calm. It’s where you come to rest, sip, and observe.
Buihaus Coffee
Opening hours: 8:30 AM-9 PM
Buihaus Coffee combines minimalist aesthetics with a nostalgic undercurrent, think soft music, filtered sunlight, and tables adorned with books and vintage cups.
It’s a space that feels both intentional and effortless: one where conversations stretch long, or where solo visitors linger with a sketchbook or a journal. Whether you’re working quietly or people-watching from the balcony, Buihaus feels like a pause button in the heart of the city.
Traveler tip: Try their coffee, served with delicate sweets and sit by the window, a small ritual that turns an ordinary afternoon into something memorable.
Michi Sushi
Opening hours: 10 AM-10 PM
Just next door, Michi Sushi introduces a distinctly Japanese calm to the building. Its compact space carries a sense of understated refinement: clean lines, wooden counters, and the gentle sound of chopsticks meeting ceramic plates.
The menu leans toward classic sushi favorites: salmon rolls, sashimi, and comforting bowls of miso soup, but what makes Michi special is its view. From the window seats, you can look out over Nguyen Hue’s skyline as the sun dips, catching the orange glow between rooftops.
For those exploring the Cafe Apartment from morning till night, this is a perfect dinner stop before heading upward for a final drink or night view.
The Eighth Floor: Quiet Corners and Letters in the Sky
By the time you reach the eighth floor, the stairwell grows narrower and quieter. The noise of the street below feels far away, as if you’ve stepped into the quieter half of the city’s heart.
The Letter Coffee Rooftop
Opening hours: 9 AM-10:30 PM
An extension of the beloved The Letter Coffee & Clothing from below, The Letter Coffee on the 8th floor brings its same vintage warmth into the open air. Here, floral tiles meet sunlight, and the scent of coffee mingles with the breeze.
It’s one of those rare Saigon spaces that feels alive at every hour: bright and reflective in the morning, softly romantic at dusk, and dreamlike under string lights at night. Many visitors find themselves staying longer than planned – journaling, sketching, or simply watching the city breathe. If you’re lucky, you might even catch a local photoshoot or an impromptu music session.
Don’t miss: Their signature coconut coffee or peach iced tea, both perfect companions for golden-hour moments.
Pờ Café
Opening hours: 8 AM-10 PM
Hidden behind a narrow hallway, Pờ Café is a small, rustic gem that carries the warmth of an old friend’s living room. Mismatched furniture, ceramic cups, and indie music define the mood here.
It’s less about presentation and more about feeling, the kind of place where you might sit down for a quick coffee and end up staying for hours.
Traveler tip: Ideal for a late-afternoon retreat. Try their Vietnamese egg coffee or salted coffee, a local twist that surprises many first-timers.
The Ninth Floor: A View Worth the Climb
Reaching the ninth floor feels like reaching the top of a story you don’t quite want to end. The air shifts, and then suddenly, the rooftop light spills in.
Good Day Café
Opening hours: 8 AM-11:30 PM
The final stop in the Cafe Apartment’s vertical journey, Good Day Café rewards your climb with a truly spectacular balcony view. If you prefer to skip the stairs, the café kindly reimburses your elevator fee upon ordering.
From up here, Saigon stretches endlessly, a mosaic of old rooftops, neon lights, and the hum of life below.
The café itself is simple but bright, with white walls, hanging plants, and a few well-loved tables that seem to invite conversation. The coffee and smoothies are straightforward, but the real draw is the view: from sunrise to sunset, it’s the kind of place that reminds you why Saigon’s chaos is also its charm.
Traveler tip: Come just before dusk. Order an iced coffee, find a seat by the railing, and watch as the city shifts from day to night – it’s the perfect ending to your Cafe Apartment exploration.
A mosaic of Ho Chi Minh City
It’s not an exaggeration to say the Cafe Apartment is a living mosaic of the city itself.
By the time you’ve reached the top, it’s no longer just about coffee, food, or boutiques. It’s about the quiet rhythm that builds as you climb, the way each floor holds a fragment of Saigon’s creative soul. From the bustling chatter of the first cafés to the serene hum of the upper floors, the Cafe Apartment becomes less a building and more a living memory of the city itself.
Every corner tells a story: a fragrance blended by hand, a book opened by the window, a laugh shared over tea, a photograph framed by sunlight. Together, they create a mosaic of what modern Saigon has become: layered, local, and endlessly alive.
Standing on the rooftop, with the city spread beneath your feet and the evening light softening the skyline, it’s easy to understand why this nine-story building has become such a beloved landmark.
It’s not perfect. The walls are cracked, the paint has faded, but that’s the beauty of it. Like Saigon itself, the Cafe Apartment carries its years with grace, a little worn but full of stories waiting to be found.
So before you leave, take one last look down Nguyen Hue Boulevard.
Then look inward, to the quiet joy that comes from finding beauty in unexpected places.
That’s the real heart of the Cafe Apartment: not the view, not the coffee, but the feeling that stays with you long after you’ve gone.
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(FAQ) A Visitor's Guide
